Whether you’re checking out the scene for the first time or a seasoned aficionado seeking fresh angles, Modernism Week’s two annual events (in October and February) offer architecture fans an immersive master class in Palm Springs’ midcentury design culture.
While the four-day fall event is smaller in scale than February’s all-out extravaganza, it’s packed with a dizzying amount of things to see and do. Plus, October brings other design-related events to town such as the Palm Springs Modern Committee’s annual Architectural Preservation Awards and the Palm Springs Modernism Show & Sale.
Not sure where to start? Take a cue from the experts. Here, five local insiders recommend a few of their favorite activities to add to your itinerary.
DJ Modgirl.
PHOTO BY DAVID A. LEE, COURTESY DJ MODGIRL
THE AUDIOPHILE
DJ Modgirl
Attend a Modernism Week party, and you’re likely to see DJ Modgirl grooving behind the turntables. She has been attending Modernism Week since 2017 and calls it “one of the most special festivals on the planet.”
While home tours are a given on any Mod Week agenda (particularly Frey House II, an Albert Frey design open for tours that she terms “super magic”), the Premier Double Decker Architectural Bus Tour provides an excellent overview of architectural treasures and is a must on DJ Modgirl’s list. “Try to get on with Charles Phoenix or [drag queen] Bella da Ball,” she suggests of specially ticketed tours helmed by two of the most entertaining guides in town.
Once nighttime falls, she suggests sipping a cocktail at a speakeasy, such as the aviation-themed PS Air Bar, Seymour’s at Mr. Lyons Steakhouse, or The Evening Citizen (if you can find it). “If you want to dance the night away, come to Neon Oasis at The Sonoran where I spin every Saturday from 9 p.m. to 2 a.m.,” she says.
THE ARTIST
Josh Agle, aka Shag
An undeniable highlight of Modernism Week is the Shag House, conceptualized and realized by artist Josh Agle, aka Shag, whose immediately recognizable art and design style has transmitted the mid-mod aesthetic of Palm Springs for decades.
“It’s a 1958 house that we basically took down to the ground and rebuilt,” he explains of the attraction, noting that he had a hand in curating everything, inside and out. “It’s as close as possible to stepping into a Shag painting.”
Josh Agle.
PHOTO COURTESY MODERNISM WEEK
On the tour, Shag — whose work has been exhibited across the globe — urges visitors to take their time to enjoy the custom artwork and design details: “It was created specifically for the house. You won’t see it anywhere else.”
Shag also suggests art lovers explore Palm Springs’ Backstreet Arts District on Cherokee Avenue. “Several artists have their studios open,” he says, citing in particular silkscreen artist Gary Wexler, son of famed architect Donald Wexler.
As for finding the perfect libation following your Shag House visit, he points to Palm Springs’ unique trio of Tiki bars. “They are all different experiences,” he says. “The Reef has the coolest vibe — as soon as you walk in, you feel you’re among friends. The Tonga Hut has the best décor. And Bootlegger Tiki has the best cocktails.”
The Shag House.
PHOTO COURTESY MOSERNISM WEEK
The Twin Palms neighborhood in Palm Springs.
PHOTO BY JAY JORGENSEN
THE PRESERVATIONIST
Chris Menrad, PS ModCom Co-founder and Board Member
The Palm Springs Modern Committee’s annual Architectural Preservation Awards are a must-attend for aficionados to socialize “after being missing in action all summer,” enthuses Chris Menrad, co-founder and board member of the committee, also known as PS ModCom.
Chris Menrad.
PHOTO COURTESY CHRIS MENRAD
“It’s our 25th anniversary this year,” he notes of the Oct. 19 awards show, which honors restorers and preservationists of historical properties. The event consists of an awards presentation at Palm Springs Art Museum’s Annenberg Theater (dress code: glam) followed by cocktails and dinner amid the art at Palm Springs Art Museum. It’s your chance to rub elbows with the local design crowd.
Menrad also raves about the Sunny Cycle Tours, which provide a view of some of Palm Springs’ most iconic neighborhoods while pedaling a party bike with a group. “Get a little exercise, have a little camaraderie,” he says. “It goes slow, so you can see things. Luckily, we have a lot of flat topography, so it’s easy to do.”
As for where to plan a DIY tour, Menrad suggests a drive around Twin Palms, one of the first tracts to historically feature modern houses. “It’s pretty much intact.”
THE QUEEN OF MOD WEEK
Lisa Vossler Smith, Modernism Week CEO
Lisa Vossler Smith has been involved in Modernism Week since its inception almost 20 years ago. “My husband and I were volunteers from the very first year, and we became raving fans,” says Lisa Vossler Smith, now the event’s CEO.
A perfect jumping-off point for those brand-new to Modernism Week? Smith, like DJ Modgirl, recommends jumping on a Premier Double Decker Architectural Bus Tour. “A great first step. It gives you an excellent open-air view of all of the significant architecture and residences in the city.”
For those already enmeshed in the scene, Smith recommends a shopping spree at the Palm Springs Modernism Show & Sale (Oct. 25–27), a precursor to Modernism Week. “[It] continues to grow, and will be open for great modern and midcentury shopping all weekend,” she says, adding that if you’re into fashion, you’ll love the Curated Vintage Event on Oct. 26 for fabulous designer finds.
Lisa Vossler Smith.
PHOTO BY KELLY PULEIO
All that sightseeing works up an appetite, and Smith cautions that “restaurants will be bustling, so make reservations.”
As for her personal picks? “Favorites of mine include Lulu or King’s Highway for breakfast, Trio or the Tommy Bahama Marlin Bar for lunch, and Mr. Lyons or 4 Saints atop the Kimpton Rowan for dinner.”
Premium Double Decker Architectural Bus Tour.
PHOTO COURTESY VISIT GREATER PALM SPRINGS
PS Underground.
PHOTO COURTESY VISIT GREATER PALM SPRINGS
THE groovy musician
Joan Gand, PS ModCom Education Committee Chair
Joan Gand — who, along with husband Gary, heads up the Coachella Valley’s premier cover act, the Gand Band — loves when a single event hits all her bases in terms of mid-mod action.
Joan Gand.
PHOTO BY GARY GRAND
“My favorite event is the Cul-de-Sac Experience,” says Gand. “It’s like a cocktail of all my favorite 1960s fun: vintage cars, home tours, design [this year is a Mondrian theme], a DJ spinning vinyl … and best of all, go-go dancers.”
The block party happens Oct. 27 at Canyon View Estates. “You’ll want to check out the collection of cars from 1965 to ’67 displayed in front of midcentury homes by William Krisel,” says Gand, an Avanti owner and enthusiast.
After a long day of fun in the sun, Gand suggests checking out jazz vocalist Elena Gilliam at Agua Caliente Casino’s Cascade Lounge or booking dinner and a show at PS Underground. In collaboration with Modernism Week, the concept restaurant presents Sunny Side of the Street, Oct. 25–26, featuring the musical stylings of Frank Sinatra and Ella Fitzgerald alongside a four-course meal.
