1922
Designed in 1922 by Austrian architect Rudolph M. Schindler for globetrotting eugenicist and pioneering date farmer Paul Popenoe and his bride, Betty, the erstwhile Popenoe Cabin in what is now the city of Coachella is widely considered the region’s first modernist structure. The 22-by-22-foot domicile featured an asymmetrical series of screened porches that doubled the living area.
Resembling, in some ways, an ad-hoc frontier encampment, the cabin suited the uncharted desert. Its terraced silhouette, however, appears influenced by the pueblo architecture of Taos, New Mexico, which captivated Schindler during a 1915 visit. Breaking from an era dominated by fussy art deco and beaux arts embellishments, the cabin marked a shift toward a broader vision. As architectural historian Marco De Michelis noted in a lecture, “Schindler’s small house is especially interesting in that it proposes architecture in perfect balance with the majestic desert landscape that surrounds it.”
1923
As the first art deco/moderne building in Palm Springs, the Oasis Hotel was once the desert’s most fashionable destination. Commissioned by Pearl McCallum McManus in tribute to her father, John Guthrie McCallum, the area’s first non-Indigenous settler, the hotel was designed by Frank Lloyd Wright Jr. (commonly known as Lloyd Wright) and built on the site of the McCallum family home, an 1884 adobe that now stands as the city’s oldest building.
The Oasis Hotel courtyard and tower.
Photo courtesy security Pacific National Bank Collection, los angeles public library
Little remains of the original 24-room hotel, built of slipform concrete with embossed deco motifs seemingly inspired by Egyptian and Aztec geometries. In that respect, the surviving 40-foot tower — a Class 1 Historic Site — could be seen as a temple honoring McCallum in downtown Palm Springs. True to its name, the Oasis of yore bloomed with wisteria, citrus trees, and flowers and even shimmered with a body of water that was no mirage — the town’s first swimming pool.
1934
Swiss architect Albert Frey first visited Palm Springs in 1934 to design the modernist Kocher-Samson office for the physician brother of A. Lawrence Kocher, Frey’s New York design partner. Drawn to the desert’s potential to inform his International Style work, the 31-year-old wrote to his mentor, Le Corbusier: “The sun, the pure air, the simple forms of the desert create the perfect conditions for architecture.” Inspired, he decided to stay.
Until his retirement in 1990, Frey worked independently and in collaboration with Kocher, E. Stewart Williams, John Porter Clark, and Robson Chambers on many projects that merged macrocosm with modernism. Notable designs include: the Raymond Loewy residence, with its curved glass pavilion enshrining the sun; Palm Springs City Hall; the Tramway Gas Station; and Frey House II, his own residence, which united shelter and nature by engulfing a boulder anchored to Mount San Jacinto.
1945-60s
Palm Springs’ vast inventory of midcentury modern buildings exists but for one exhilarating moment in our cultural zeitgeist: the post-WWII economic boom. No longer burdened by the war effort, America’s outlook was newly optimistic, shifting from rationing resources to embracing growth and prosperity.
Already a Hollywood playground, Palm Springs attracted middle-class families of war veterans seeking a piece of the tee-time-punctuated, poolside-centric lifestyle. Industrial advancements in concrete, glass, and steel made the utopian ideals of modernism — transparency, progress, and liberation — attainable. “This perfect storm allowed young architects to experiment with their new ideas, supported by eager developers and homebuyers,” explains Ken Lyon, principal city planner for the city of Palm Springs.
1946
Emerson Stewart Williams arrived in Palm Springs to join the established architecture practice of his father, Harry, and younger brother, Roger. The family firm, Williams, Williams & Williams, was responsible for designing Palm Springs City Hall (1957) and the Desert Museum (1958) — both collaborations with Clark, Frey & Chambers. E. Stewart emerged as a rising star with an eye for sharp lines, long-and-low forms, environmental sensitivity, and material
mastery that would profoundly shape the local landscape.
Late 1940s
The arrival of Philadelphia transplant Herbert Burns — a jack-of-all-trades (lighting designer, stockbroker, color consultant) and self-taught master of architecture — coincided with a rave review of his inaugural project, the 1947 Town and Desert Apartment Hotel from one of the best eyes in the business. “The designer must merge desert and house, so the occupant will be puzzled to find that subtle point where the view ends and the interior begins,” photographer Julius Shulman wrote in 1948 for Los Angeles Times Home magazine.
The horizon served as Burns’ most seductive muse. He admired moderne architecture and the work of Frank Lloyd Wright for their irrefutable horizontality. He emphasized the s-t-r-e-t-c-h of his own low-slung buildings — including the 1950 Slayman-Bock residence, the 1951 Crockett House, and the 1957 Village Manor. He highlighted his designs with a trademark double eave and fascia and matched the color of the desert with frequent use of sandstone, indoors and out.
E. Stewart Williams’ Santa Fe Savings & Loan, photographed in 1962.
PHOTO BY julius shulman © J. Paul Getty Trust, Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles (2004.R.10)
1950-1970
Banking in postwar America underwent a radical shift from its stature at the turn of the 20th century. Once defined by somber Greek Revival architecture — exemplified by the U.S. Treasury Building in Washington, D.C., completed in 1869 — midcentury banks “embodied a new American vision,” says the Historic Preservation Education Foundation.
The evolution toward approachability and transparency is evident in structures like E. Stewart Williams’ Coachella Valley Savings & Loan No. 2 (stewarded by Chase Bank), with its expressionist take on Grecian columns, and his Santa Fe Savings & Loan (1960), a glass case that today houses the Palm Springs Art Museum Architecture and Design Center.
1956-1958
George and Robert Alexander, successful father-and-son developers from Los Angeles, tapped architects William Krisel and Dan Palmer to design approximately 90 working-class homes for their first Palm Springs subdivision, Twin Palms Estates, named for the two palm trees that stood sentry on each lot.
Common design elements of these now-iconic Alexander homes include post-and-beam ceilings, breezeways, carports, and clerestory windows. Their “originality” came from customizable rooflines — including the trendy butterfly style — and varying orientations on each site. “A brilliant stroke,” late historian Robert Imber once said of the tactic that “[made] the development look like a collection of individualized homes.”
The Alexander Construction Company went on to build over 2,200 homes across a dozen Palm Springs neighborhoods and the Coachella Valley, until 1965, when George, Robert, and their wives died in a plane crash.
One of 15 Swiss Miss (or Alohaus) homes designed by Charles DuBois in Vista Las Palmas.
Photo by fredrik brodén
1958-1962
The general consensus holds that the A-frame Swiss Miss houses that architect Charles DuBois designed for the Alexander-built neighborhood Vista Las Palmas drew inspiration from either snow-sloughing chalet architecture or traditional Polynesian huts, which shed monsoon rains. Given that the neighborhood’s original architects, Dan Palmer and William Krisel, rejected developer Joe Dunas’ request for an alternate style to complement their butterfly-roof design, DuBois may have simply flipped the duo’s V-shaped trademark upside down — a visual counterpoint conceivably made in jest.
Only 15 of these Swiss Misses (more recently labeled Alohaus designs) exist in the neighborhood. Their lofty apex of 18 feet and tent-like sides are dissonant enough in the desert for Krisel to remark, “It’s like Disneyland.”
1960s
If homeownership during the postwar economic boom was, to borrow from modern slang, “lit,” principal city planner Ken Lyon says the legal establishment of the condominium “really fanned the flames of demand.” When the National Housing Act of 1961 extended mortgage insurance to condominiums, developers like Roy and Bob Fey seized a sizzling opportunity to increase housing density — and, in turn, make a mint — by attracting even more leisure-seeking buyers with shared amenities like clubhouses and pools. In 1962, the father-and-son team converted their 38-unit Desert Skies Hotel, built in 1956, into the area’s first condo complex. Notable “common-interest developments” that followed include the Feys’ villa-style, 180-unit Canyon View Estates (1962) and the 30-unit Country Club Estates (1965), designed by A. Quincy Jones and Frederick Emmons, currently under historic review.
Residents enjoy a common pool area at Canyon View Estates in the 1960s.
Photo courtesy palm springs life archive
1961-1962
Among the most recognizable residences in Palm Springs are the Wexler Steel Development Houses, designed by Donald Wexler and his partner Richard Harrison for an ill-fated Palm Springs subdivision at the behest of the Alexander Construction Company. Responding to the country’s waning wood supply due to high demand for traditional wood-frame housing, Wexler’s prefab steel-frame homes were designed to be assembled quickly — within days — and priced modestly, between $13,000 and $17,000. Their rectilinear silhouettes and minimal ornamentation, save for a zigzag flourish on an optional folded steel-plate roof, drew inspiration from America’s first steel residence: the 1929 Lovell House in Los Angeles, designed by Wexler’s mentor, Richard Neutra.
Only seven of Wexler’s domiciles were built due to the surging cost of U.S. steel. Today, each holds a Class 1 Historic Site designation, with House No. 2 additionally listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
1965
If a single masterpiece were tasked with representing desert modernism in Palm Springs, the Tramway Gas Station, designed by Albert Frey and his then-partner Robson Chambers, would likely carry the mantle. As a paragon of adaptive reuse, the former Enco station was transformed into the city’s official visitor center in 2003, beckoning tourists for a pit stop with its striking hyperbolic paraboloid roof.
Not only is this cantilevered marvel — with a canopy as deep as the desert sun is bright — an innovation beyond modernism’s boxy majority, it’s also an expression of the future: an aerodynamic form pointing into the stratosphere while juxtaposed against the craggy San Jacinto Mountains, simultaneously grounding and eternal. In 2015, local architectural preservationist Peter Moruzzi successfully shepherded the Tramway Gas Station to its rightful place on the National Register of Historic Places.
Albert Frey’s Tramway Gas Station (now Palm Springs Visitor Center).
Photo by fredrik brodén
1966
Considering the confusing experience that most modern-day airports (with their lamentably labyrinthine layouts) offer weary travelers, the Palm Springs International Airport Terminal, completed in 1966, was remarkably ahead of its time. Constructed on 600 acres of tribal land purchased by the city of Palm Springs, the Donald Wexler design takes the form of an X: four wings splaying from a central concourse, a plan that helps visitors quickly get their bearings by simply standing at the belly of the terminal, where they can see every gate. A 30-foot glass wall at the main entrance frames a view of the mountains — the true X that marks the spot.
The Palm Springs International Airport.
PHOTO COURTESY PALM SPRINGS LIFE ARCHIVES
Sunbathers at the former Spa Hotel.
PHOTO COURTESY PALM SPRINGS LIFE ARCHIVES
1997
Formerly known as the Palm Springs Historic Site Foundation, the Palm Springs Preservation Foundation pursues historical designations for standouts of desert modernism, such as Donald Wexler’s stripped-down pantheon — the 1971 Merrill Lynch Building — and Walter S. White’s 1956 Franz Alexander Residence. Openly sharing successes like these alongside setbacks, like the 2014 demolition of the Spa Hotel, helps generate community urgency, but bureaucratic efforts tend to draw a narrow audience.
By leveraging the storytelling of its compelling nominations, the foundation creates content designed to resonate with the public, from thematic weekend events to informative books and a free lecture series. Among the popular lectures is “Lost, Saved, and Endangered,” which has been presented 26 times since its 2010 debut.
During Modernism Week, their popular tours spotlight restoration, while its annual Retro Martini Party toasts advocacy freed from red tape.
1999
Without the education and advocacy group Palm Springs Modern Committee (PS ModCom), which initially united to prevent the city from demolishing Albert Frey’s Fire Station No. 1, the building wouldn’t hold its Class 1 Historic Site designation today. The Palm Springs International Airport, along with other vulnerable landmarks, might have faced “insensitive alterations” or worse, if not for the committee’s dogged defensive maneuvers, including litigation.
PS ModCom’s BEAM (Be A Modernist) Program in local schools and its Desert Modernism 101 lecture series at libraries and museums continue to inspire architecture crusaders of all ages. During Modernism Week, many of the velvet-rope soirées hosted by PS ModCom sell out months in advance. In October, the organization hosts its annual Architectural Preservation Awards, honoring those who protect, restore, and adaptively reuse important structures.
2001
A fateful move to the desert by French antiques dealer Jacques Caussin, longtime producer of the Miami Modernism Show, sparked the creation of the Palm Springs Modernism Show & Sale, a forerunner to Modernism Week. After settling in Palm Springs, Caussin saw potential for a similar event celebrating 20th-century design, given the region’s built-in audience and its trove of midcentury modern architecture. He launched the show over President’s Day weekend at the Palm Springs Convention Center with help from Rosemary Krieger and Robert Smith of Dolphin Promotions.
The inaugural event featured 40 exhibitors showcasing the likes of Eames furniture, Poul Henningsen lighting, and midcentury bric-a-brac including atomic-era hardware and Lucite jewelry, attracting a crowd of 3,500 discerning attendees. In 2024, the event hosted 130 exhibitors and drew 15,000 guests, nearly tripling its debut.
The Palm Springs Modernism Show & Sale.
PHOTO courtesy palm springs modernism show & sale
The living room of the erstwhile Maslon House.
photo by julius shulman © J. Paul Getty Trust, Getty Research Institute, Los Angeles (2004.R.10)
2002
One of the greatest crimes against 20th-century architecture, the reckless demolition of the 1963 Maslon House — designed by Richard Neutra for art collectors Samuel and Luella Maslon — remains etched in the memories of preservationists with every historic nomination they write. Sited between two fairways on the golf course at Tamarisk Country Club in Rancho Mirage, the home was a modernist masterpiece, with a generous overhang and glass walls that seemed to vanish, making the roof — a flat, level plane — appear to hover.
A short-sighted new owner and his permit-granting accomplices at Rancho Mirage City Hall ignored its significance in the modernism canon as one of only three Neutra residences in the desert. An international outcry put their negligence in the spotlight and profoundly transformed the ethos of Rancho Mirage and the Coachella Valley forever. A documentary about the house by Scott Goldstein, a filmmaker and vice president of Preservation Mirage, will premiere Feb. 19 during Modernism Week. The city of Rancho Mirage is one of six sponsors of the film.
2006
A merry band of modernism disciples — including former Palm Springs Art Museum curator Sidney Williams and Palm Springs Modernism Show & Sale founder Jacques Caussin — devised a plan to fill the lull between the Modernism Show and the museum’s Architectural Symposium, held on back-to-back weekends in February since 2001.
With just $4,500 in seed money and six events, the fledgling Modernism Week drew 300 curious attendees. Fast-forward nearly two decades, and, as Williams puts it, “the event has evolved into a powerhouse nonprofit, drawing locals and visitors to celebrate our modernist heritage while injecting millions into our community.”
In 2024, Modernism Week welcomed 130,000 guests, hosted 350 events — from double-decker bus tours and pop-up speakeasies to tours of the famed Elvis Honeymoon Hideaway — and generated $68 million in revenue. Elevating Palm Springs modernism to global acclaim? That’s priceless.
2014
Around the turn of the 21st century, E. Stewart Williams’ Santa Fe Savings & Loan had fallen into disrepair and faced a grim future, threatened by a proposed condo development. Palm Springs Art Museum purchased the building in 2011. The architect’s daughter-in-law, Sidney Williams, then curator of architecture and design at Palm Springs Art Museum, spearheaded a successful campaign to transform the seemingly floating glass box — reminiscent of Mies van der Rohe’s Farnsworth House — into a satellite gallery for the museum.
The signature transparency of the 13,000-square-foot structure — restored by Los Angeles design studio Marmol Radziner and renamed the Architecture and Design Center, Edwards Harris Pavilion — was as groundbreaking for a financial institution then as it is for a gallery today. Such openness symbolizes accessibility and honesty, tenets fundamental to museums but not necessarily to banks.
Aluminaire.
Photo courtesy palm springs art museum
2024
Aluminaire, the aluminum-clad, prefab prototype that architects Albert Frey and A. Lawrence Kocher debuted at the 1931 Architectural and Allied Arts Exposition of New York, was officially unveiled in 2024 on the grounds of the Palm Springs Art Museum. At the ceremony, executive director Adam Lerner remarked, “It comes with a whole series of ideas for society.” Made of industrial materials like steel posts and corrugated aluminum sheathing, this cost-effective housing model was intended for mass production in war-ravaged cities.
The “Tin Can,” as it was once nicknamed, remains as futuristic today as it was then. Arguably, Aluminaire’s socialism-coded concept holds potential to mitigate modern-day housing crises. Rescued from decay in New York, it now stands among the desert works of Frey’s celebrated oeuvre. That it happens to sit within view of Frey House II, the architect’s former home, seems almost predestined — a fitting tribute to his vision of a modern future.







